Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Cat - Your Pets and Your Guardian Angel

If you are like most people, you consider your pets to be part of your family. You love them and receive much love in return, and you distress when they become ill or lost for even a short time. Below I'm going to give you some unique suggestions on lowering your stress level when events seem to be worrisome or even in crises situations with those lovable family members.

About ten years ago, in reading spiritual articles and books, I kept noticing the word "benevolent" used in stories about Guardian Angels and their relationship to us. One day I read a suggestion to request benevolent outcomes for events in your life. I decided to try it out, and was amazed how PERFECTLY it worked for everything, from small requests such as a parking spot next to a busy restaurant or a seat on the subway to the really important situations in my business and personal life. After having made these requests between 10,000 and 15,000 times over the years, I am firmly convinced that our Guardian Angels are there to assist us in living more gentle lives. We just have to ask.

So how do we utilize these requests with our pets? As an example, one of my dogs, Sandy, will roam the neighborhood if we accidentally leave the gate open, which certainly at the very least could mean the permanent loss of a sweet, lovable dog. When this happens, I have immediately requested out loud, "I request a Most Benevolent Outcome for finding Sandy safe and sound. Thank you." You always thank your Guardian Angel and make these requests with emotion, as that works best. Requesting a Benevolent Outcome always takes the stress and worry away, as I KNOW that I'm going to find her.

When it's time to add a pet into your family, you say, "I request a Most Benevolent Outcome for finding the perfect pet for our family. Thank you." When you go to an animal shelter, possibly one of the attendants points out a pet that just arrived that morning, even just a few minutes before you arrived. Or you will just be drawn to one particular animal that in your heart you know is the perfect companion for your family. Even before you go, one of your friends calls to tell you about a new litter. Your Guardian Angel works in amazing ways, and I can assure you it's FUN to sit back and see how the pieces of the puzzle come together when you make requests for MBO's (as I call them). Just remember that requesting Benevolent Outcomes has to be benevolent for all concerned.

Next, you can request a Benevolent Outcome for choosing the right food and vitamins for your pet. And you can request a Benevolent Outcome for visits to the veterinarian. When your pet is sick, that can really cause you to be concerned and worry for their welfare. One lady told me how her cat was recently in distress, so she took her cat to the veterinarian and requested a MBO that the cat would be fine. She was greatly relieved to be told by the vet that it was an easy problem to treat.

One of our previous female dogs had a parvo type disease that is fatal 99 out of 100 times. We requested a Benevolent Outcome for her recovery, and then had the "inspiration" to start feeding her large amounts of the same vitamin E we took for our health. Her blood count slowly increased to the point where she completely recovered.

I'm going to give you something else that works when you see an animal on TV that has been injured, tortured, or trapped. You can feel quite frustrated that you can't help that animal in person. But you can say out loud, "I ask that any and all beings come to the aid of this animal and comfort, aid, and assist this animal in any and all ways. Thank you." These requests are not acted upon by your Guardian Angel, but by other Angelic beings, and INSTANTLY. You do not limit the request to humans, as it could be other animals or Angelic beings that actually physically assist that animal in distress. Then you will feel better that at least you did what you could to aid that animal. This confidence will be higher if you have been requesting Benevolent Outcomes in your life, so you know from direct experience and knowledge that making these requests really work!

Your life with your pet companions will be much less stressful and worry-free when you request Benevolent Outcomes from the time that you decide to add them to your family and all through their lives with you. I wish you all a Good Life!

copyright 2006. Tom Moore is an entertainment industry CEO, who distributes motion pictures and TV programs internationally. His book, The Gentle Way: A Self-Help Guide For Those Who Believe in Angels (ISBN # 1-891824-60-0, Light Technology) gives many more suggestions for requesting Benevolent Outcomes. Visit his website at http://www.TheGentleWayBook.com.

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tom_T._Moore

Cat - 10 Essential Pregnant Cat Care Tips

1. Keep your pregnant cat indoors.
Don't expose an expecting kitty to danger. But there are more reasons. Some queens go into heat even during pregnancy. Cats are capable of being pregnant of two different litters at the same time. And of course, a pregnant cat should not give birth in a cold place outside.

2. Give your kitty the right food.
It should be high on calcium and protein. Kitten food is specially designed to meet the need of pregnant and nursing felines. Vitamin supplements are recommended too.

3. Do not give any medication during pregnancy.
A pregnant cat should get medication only in emergency. The same goes for deworming products, or products against fleas. If she has worms or fleas, first consult your vet.

4. Make your cat a comfortable nest bed.
A box filled with newspaper usually does the trick. Put in a warm sheltered place, preferably a location your cat frequently visits. Make sure all is ready two weeks before birth.

5. Find a home for your kittens - before they are born.
It will give you peace of mind to know where the kittens will go. Finding a home for a kitty can be time consuming. You'll have more time for that before they are born.

6. Use non-clumping litter for her box.
Sometimes cats give birth in the litter box. If a kitten is delivered in clumping litter, the mother kitty might refuse to clean her newborn off as the clump is all over the sac. And the baby drowns in its own fluid.

7. Keep other cats away from her.
You have more than one kitty? Your pregnant cat wants privacy. She doesn't like the company of other cats during this period, even if she knows these cats very well.

8. Buy enough food for your kitty... and you.
You should have no reason to leave your kitty alone on the days before and after birth.

9. Check which vet is available.
Have a piece of paper with the phone number of the closest emergency veterinary clinic. If there's no such clinic in your area, find out which vet is available for emergency care. One phone call to a local vet is usually enough.

10. Get the right information about cat pregnancy.
Only if you understand what you see and hear, you will be able to recognize complications. Plus... there are many problems you can solve yourself, if you know how. So, do not panic. Get the right information instead.

Friday, October 26, 2007

Cat - 10 Essential Pregnant Cat Care Tips

1. Keep your pregnant cat indoors.
Don't expose an expecting kitty to danger. But there are more reasons. Some queens go into heat even during pregnancy. Cats are capable of being pregnant of two different litters at the same time. And of course, a pregnant cat should not give birth in a cold place outside.

2. Give your kitty the right food.
It should be high on calcium and protein. Kitten food is specially designed to meet the need of pregnant and nursing felines. Vitamin supplements are recommended too.

3. Do not give any medication during pregnancy.
A pregnant cat should get medication only in emergency. The same goes for deworming products, or products against fleas. If she has worms or fleas, first consult your vet.

4. Make your cat a comfortable nest bed.
A box filled with newspaper usually does the trick. Put in a warm sheltered place, preferably a location your cat frequently visits. Make sure all is ready two weeks before birth.

5. Find a home for your kittens - before they are born.
It will give you peace of mind to know where the kittens will go. Finding a home for a kitty can be time consuming. You'll have more time for that before they are born.

6. Use non-clumping litter for her box.
Sometimes cats give birth in the litter box. If a kitten is delivered in clumping litter, the mother kitty might refuse to clean her newborn off as the clump is all over the sac. And the baby drowns in its own fluid.

7. Keep other cats away from her.
You have more than one kitty? Your pregnant cat wants privacy. She doesn't like the company of other cats during this period, even if she knows these cats very well.

8. Buy enough food for your kitty... and you.
You should have no reason to leave your kitty alone on the days before and after birth.

9. Check which vet is available.
Have a piece of paper with the phone number of the closest emergency veterinary clinic. If there's no such clinic in your area, find out which vet is available for emergency care. One phone call to a local vet is usually enough.

10. Get the right information about cat pregnancy.
Only if you understand what you see and hear, you will be able to recognize complications. Plus... there are many problems you can solve yourself, if you know how. So, do not panic. Get the right information instead.

Marc de Jong is a journalist and long-time cat lover. For his easy-to-follow, step-by-step guidebook How To Take Care Of Your Pregnant Cat - available through http://www.pregnant-cat-care.com - he interviewed several award-winning breeders and specialized vets.

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marc_De_Jong

Cat - Will a Cat Litter Mat Do the Job?

Keeping your cat's liter box and the surround area clean and fresh can be quite a chore. One of the ways you can help to minimize the cleaning that has to be done is by using a cat litter mat. Here are a couple of ways that a litter mat for your cat will make a big difference to both of you.

One of the innovative things about the litter mat is the way it is designed. In effect, it is a platform for any regular sized litter box. The platform comes with side rails that can keep bits of cat litter from flying all over the place when your cat scratches in the litter. Also, the entry way to the litter box is designed with an array of lattice work that helps to separate the paws so that when the cat emerges, any and all residue that is on the paws is captured on the way out. This means your cat will not be tracking cat litter all over the house. The mess is effectively contained in the immediate area of the litter box, do you do not have to worry about cleaning a wider section as often.

Because of the open-ended design of the cat litter mat, you can easily pick up the litter box and take it off to be cleaned. You do not have to detach it from the mat in any manner. You simply lift up the box and go. When it comes to cleaning the mat itself, you will find that plain soap and water will do the trick. It is small enough to clean in the tub or in a utility sized sink in the garage if you prefer. Because most of the mats are made of a durable plastic, they are easy to clean and dry, so you can have the mat back in place in a matter of minutes.

A cat litter mat can save you a lot of time when it comes to cleaning up around the litter box, as well as making it harder for your cat to track litter all over the house. Why not take a closer look at the mats at your local pet store? The mat may be the solution you have been looking for.

Cat - Will a Cat Litter Mat Do the Job?

Keeping your cat's liter box and the surround area clean and fresh can be quite a chore. One of the ways you can help to minimize the cleaning that has to be done is by using a cat litter mat. Here are a couple of ways that a litter mat for your cat will make a big difference to both of you.

One of the innovative things about the litter mat is the way it is designed. In effect, it is a platform for any regular sized litter box. The platform comes with side rails that can keep bits of cat litter from flying all over the place when your cat scratches in the litter. Also, the entry way to the litter box is designed with an array of lattice work that helps to separate the paws so that when the cat emerges, any and all residue that is on the paws is captured on the way out. This means your cat will not be tracking cat litter all over the house. The mess is effectively contained in the immediate area of the litter box, do you do not have to worry about cleaning a wider section as often.

Because of the open-ended design of the cat litter mat, you can easily pick up the litter box and take it off to be cleaned. You do not have to detach it from the mat in any manner. You simply lift up the box and go. When it comes to cleaning the mat itself, you will find that plain soap and water will do the trick. It is small enough to clean in the tub or in a utility sized sink in the garage if you prefer. Because most of the mats are made of a durable plastic, they are easy to clean and dry, so you can have the mat back in place in a matter of minutes.

A cat litter mat can save you a lot of time when it comes to cleaning up around the litter box, as well as making it harder for your cat to track litter all over the house. Why not take a closer look at the mats at your local pet store? The mat may be the solution you have been looking for.

Mayoor Patel is the writer for the website http://www.cat-litter.wares-are.us/. Please visit for information on all things concerned with Cat Litter Mat

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mayoor_Patel

Cat - Cats and Scratching -- Training Your Cat

So you have a cat that loves to scratch. Well, there is nothing wrong with that as it is natural for cats to love to scratch furniture and other objects. So what do you do if there is destructive scratching? For example, when your $5,000 sofa is the object of your cats claws? Well the simple answer is train them to scratch appropriate items.

Cats scratch for a variety of reasons. Some cats scratch furniture to burn energy or to stretch. After all, who doesn't like to stretch now and again. Scratching also helps remove the dead outer layer of claws, similar to humans clipping your finger nails. Another possibility is territory marking as scratch marks are a visible sign and scent glands (in the paws) add olfactory smells to say this is my spot/territory/area.

As scratching is natural, it is not right to punish your cat for what it instinctively does. Punishing your cat for scratching only makes him or her more likely to be more aggressive and fearful of you as the trust between you can be destroyed. It also does not help because your cat doesn't know any better if they have not yet been trained to scratch another item. The best form of punishment, should you feel it's absolutely necessary, is to make a loud noise or squirt it with a squirt bottle if you catch your cat in the act of scratching the wrong object. However you must have given the cat an alternative to scratch beforehand or the cat will not understand. If the cat learns to associate the noise with you, then the cat may stop scratching while you're present, but probably resume once you're gone. This is why training your cat to scratch scratching posts and other proper objects is so important.

Now that you know why your cat scratches and what not to do, you can train him or her to scratch appropriate objects and not your prized furniture. The first step involves seeing what objects your cat likes to scratch. What type of material is the object - is it smooth, coarse, rough? The height of the object and how high up the cat scratches is also important information. Is the object flat or upright? Finally, knowing where it is located is another important step - sleeping area, entrance area of a room, etc. Observing the characteristics of items your cat likes to scratch means you can find or buy a similar item for your cat.

Put whatever stationary object you end up getting - a scratching post, a rope, a log, etc. - very close to the object you do not want your cat to scratch. However, make sure it will not fall over or otherwise move as your cat uses it or else your cat will not use it again. Then cover up the item your cat scratches with something he or she does not like - some material (double-sided tape or aluminum foil works well) or a non-harmful odor that he/she doesn't like (try citrus). Your cat should now work its way to the new object as it resembles what your cat likes and will start scratching it instead.

As your cat starts scratching his or her new object, you can slowly move it to a new spot. However, only move it a couple inches each day as your cat won't like sudden changes. Best results can be achieved when the object is as close as possible to what you do not want your cat to scratch. As a reminder you do not want to remove whatever covering you have put on your valuable furniture, drape or object for many weeks, even up to a month! When you do start removing your coverings, do so gradually to reinforce in your cat that he or she is not supposed to scratch it.

A final piece of advice on training is to start when the cat is young as it is easier to train a kitten than an old cat. Regardless of age, a cat can always be trained if you put in the time.

Congratulations! You now know how to train your cat to scratch objects you want, not your $5,000 sofa.

Cat - Cats and Scratching -- Training Your Cat

So you have a cat that loves to scratch. Well, there is nothing wrong with that as it is natural for cats to love to scratch furniture and other objects. So what do you do if there is destructive scratching? For example, when your $5,000 sofa is the object of your cats claws? Well the simple answer is train them to scratch appropriate items.

Cats scratch for a variety of reasons. Some cats scratch furniture to burn energy or to stretch. After all, who doesn't like to stretch now and again. Scratching also helps remove the dead outer layer of claws, similar to humans clipping your finger nails. Another possibility is territory marking as scratch marks are a visible sign and scent glands (in the paws) add olfactory smells to say this is my spot/territory/area.

As scratching is natural, it is not right to punish your cat for what it instinctively does. Punishing your cat for scratching only makes him or her more likely to be more aggressive and fearful of you as the trust between you can be destroyed. It also does not help because your cat doesn't know any better if they have not yet been trained to scratch another item. The best form of punishment, should you feel it's absolutely necessary, is to make a loud noise or squirt it with a squirt bottle if you catch your cat in the act of scratching the wrong object. However you must have given the cat an alternative to scratch beforehand or the cat will not understand. If the cat learns to associate the noise with you, then the cat may stop scratching while you're present, but probably resume once you're gone. This is why training your cat to scratch scratching posts and other proper objects is so important.

Now that you know why your cat scratches and what not to do, you can train him or her to scratch appropriate objects and not your prized furniture. The first step involves seeing what objects your cat likes to scratch. What type of material is the object - is it smooth, coarse, rough? The height of the object and how high up the cat scratches is also important information. Is the object flat or upright? Finally, knowing where it is located is another important step - sleeping area, entrance area of a room, etc. Observing the characteristics of items your cat likes to scratch means you can find or buy a similar item for your cat.

Put whatever stationary object you end up getting - a scratching post, a rope, a log, etc. - very close to the object you do not want your cat to scratch. However, make sure it will not fall over or otherwise move as your cat uses it or else your cat will not use it again. Then cover up the item your cat scratches with something he or she does not like - some material (double-sided tape or aluminum foil works well) or a non-harmful odor that he/she doesn't like (try citrus). Your cat should now work its way to the new object as it resembles what your cat likes and will start scratching it instead.

As your cat starts scratching his or her new object, you can slowly move it to a new spot. However, only move it a couple inches each day as your cat won't like sudden changes. Best results can be achieved when the object is as close as possible to what you do not want your cat to scratch. As a reminder you do not want to remove whatever covering you have put on your valuable furniture, drape or object for many weeks, even up to a month! When you do start removing your coverings, do so gradually to reinforce in your cat that he or she is not supposed to scratch it.

A final piece of advice on training is to start when the cat is young as it is easier to train a kitten than an old cat. Regardless of age, a cat can always be trained if you put in the time.

Congratulations! You now know how to train your cat to scratch objects you want, not your $5,000 sofa.

By Arthur Royal
Technicial Writer for Only Petcare
http://www.onlypetcare.com

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Arthur_Royal

Cat - Raccoons, 'Possums And My Cat Spike!

Raccoons have no manners! They're slobs and the one staring at me didn't seem to really care about the niceties of eating. Bits of dry cat food were soaking up water from where it had been sloshed out of the water bowl. The bag of food I'd laid on a table was now torn open and about 10 pounds of cat chow was strewn across the floor.

This particular raccoon had come in through the pet door into the garage and was happily eating leftovers from my cat Spike's dinner bowl. He obviously had no fear of me, because he kept eating as I walked over to the work bench. Even though he appeared to half tamed, I was trying to keep a little distance between me and the raccoon.

Spike has a bed in the garage, in the house and on the deck. Whenever and wherever the mood strikes him to take a nap, he's not very far from a comfortable pillow. He has become adjusted to seeing raccoons and possums enter his garage at all hours of the night. Tonight he was sleeping on the bed that used to be my work bench before he took it over. He was now peering over the side of the cardboard box that was his bed, at the raccoon that was making a mess of his eating area.

I heard a noise from the outside of the door as another animal entered the garage through the pet door. This time it was a possum! This fella seemed to know his way around for he immediately walked over to the food bowl and began staring at the raccoon. Each kept their eyes on each other, ignoring Spike and me.

The raccoon won the staring contest for the possum casually backed up and hid under a table at the corner of the garage. There he remained until I left the garage. Spike got tired of the show and went outside through his cat door.

The real name of this critter is opossum. But down here in the south we just call it a 'possum. They are really, really fond of cat food, but will eat almost anything; rodents, insects, frogs, road kill, grains and fruits. 'Possums are rather lazy, so if there is available food in a garbage can or cat food in a garage they will find it.

While their appetites knows no bounds, they are cowards and will rarely attack any animal bigger than them or any animal that might fight back, including cats. Oddly enough Spike seems to get along with both the varmints who have invaded our garage.

We live in the city, but fairly close to wooded areas that are homes to a variety of animals including, 'possums, raccoons, foxes, and coyotes. Our city's growth is slowly taking over the wild animal's habitat, making the aroma of a trash can irresistible to critters who want a free lunch. As a result, raccoons and 'possums have no great fear of man! Don't leave a food source available to any of these varmints because they will find it sooner or later. If they can't find food in your back yard, they will just move on.

I may have to try trapping the animal, but that didn't work out very well last year. I used a gage-like trap that is supposed to close the entry way into the cage when the animal tries to eat the canned cat food in the back of the cage. It's very humane. Of the five raccoons we had last year, none were caught. I did catch Spike...twice. I've never accused him of being smart!

If you have a 'possum get into your house, the best thing to do is to put a can of cat food just outside the door and let the animal go to the food. Then slam the door shut! They may scare you by hissing and snarling, but that's just their defensive mechanism. It's sort of scary when they bare their fifty teeth, but more than likely if you back away, they'll never hurt you. One good thing about confrontations with a 'possum is that they hardly ever get rabies.

I really hope they'll leave soon. Spike and I would like to get our garage back.